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Ball Pythons (Python- regius)
Ball pythons are a docile snake originating from west Africa to central Africa. The ball python acquired its name because of its defensive behavior of rolling up in ball. Hatchling ball pythons range in length from 10-17 inches and adults from 3-5 feet. Ball pythons are a great family snake and are easily handled by supervised children, but due to their reluctance to eat regularly they are not recommended for beginners unless the specimen is a proven eater.
PICKING OUT A BALL PYTHON
The best ball python to pick out is a captive bred juvenile. If you must pick an older specimen pick out the smallest in length of the group. Most ball pythons in the pet trade are wild caught specimens, they often times make poor captives unless set up properly, and you have to have a lot of patience. Upon physical exam the snake should have a strong grip, good muscle tone, and the ribs or spine should not be protruding. Eyes should be clean and clear. Nose and mouth should be free of mucus and bubbles. There should be no evidence of trauma to the scales and all should be intact. Abnormal skin from past sheds should not be retained. Check the vent and make sure no smeared diarrhea is present. Commonly, ball pythons will have ticks or mites, and unless you are willing to deal with the presence of these parasites, or you have other snakes, you should pass over these specimens.
HOUSING
Juvenile ball pythons can be housed in a 10 gallon aquarium. Adult snakes can be housed in a 30 gallon aquarium, larger is preferred. All aquariums or cages should be escape proof: ball pythons are excellent escape artists. The most important item for these snakes is the hide box. Ball pythons are very private and need a great deal of security to be cared for properly. Ball pythons require a great deal of privacy because they are a nocturnal snake (active at night). There should be a hide box located at either end of the cage, one on the hot side and one on the cool side. Hide boxes for ball pythons need to have the entrance at the top, an inverted flower pot with a hole cut in the bottom works best. They live in burrows and hang their heads out to catch prey, pulling the prey into the burrow to eat it. In order to keep them feeding readily and happy you must recreate this behavior in captivity. Substrate should consist of newspaper pellets, astroturf, aspen or pine bedding.
LIGHTING AND HEATING
Ball pythons require no light and prefer no light shining in their environment. Light shining in the hide box or on the snake causes stress and acclimation problems. Heating is achieved by using a heating pad or heating tape under the cage. The daytime temperature should be 80-85 degrees with a basking area (covered by a hide box) reaching 90 degrees. The nighttime temperature should drop to 75-80 degrees.
FEEDING
Refusal to feed is the problem most associated with ball pythons. If you picked a healthy specimen it will be able to fast with no ill effects. Records of ball pythons fasting for up to a year are not uncommon, so do not panic. Rules for feeding ball pythons are as follows:
- Set up your cage exactly as noted above.
- Allow your pet to acclimate for 2-4 weeks prior to feeding.
- Make sure the temperature is right.
- Introduce all food items at night, the darker the room the better, the more privacy the better.
- A fuzzy mouse to juvenile or an adult mouse to an adult snake. Wild caught specimens will not eat dead prey, they need to be taught this after they are feeding regularly.
If the snake still does not eat try these tricks. Cover the entire cage with a sheet or blanket to ensure the most privacy. Try a gerbil, they are the native rodent of Africa and easily recognized as prey. Test a fecal on your snake at the vet to check for internal parasites, this should also be done for a snake that is eating. Brown bag method, put the prey item in a paper bag with the snake overnight, use dead prey to be sure your snake will not get chewed on. Only force feed your snake if absolutely necessary; consult your vet first.
REFERENCES
De Vosjoli, P., 1990, "General Care and Maintenance of Ball Pythons," Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1990
Barker, T&D., 1996, "Pythons and Boas In Your Home," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996
"Field Notes On Wild Ball Pythons In Africa," Reptiles Magazine, 1995
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Colubrid Snakes
The snake family Colubridae contains the largest numbers of snake species worldwide. They range in size up to 10 feet in length, and occupy a large variety of environments. Colubrid snakes generally are easy to care for and make nice pets.
PICKING OUT A COLUBRID SNAKE
Look for a snake who is alert , and has clear eyes and no abnormal retained skin from past sheds. Ask if it has eaten lately and if you can see it eat. Find out if the snake is captive bred or wild caught. The snake should have a nice rounded body with no ribs protruding.
HOUSING AND LIGHTING
Depending on the size of the snake, the perimeter of the cage should be twice as long as the entire length of the snake. The cage should have many hiding places and some branches for climbing; a large water bowl for soaking will also be appreciated. Substrate should consist of newspaper pellets, aspen bedding or pine shavings. Heat should be provided by using an incandescent heat lamp or a heating pad on half of the cage.
Temperature should not exceed 88 degrees in the day, and at night should be between 70-75 degrees. The light should be on a 12 hour light cycle, except for in the winter, when it should be a 9-10 hour light cycle. A tight fitting cage lid is extremely important is: colubrid snakes are great escape artists.
FEEDING
Most all colubrids snakes eat mice or rats, depending on the size of the snake. Garter snakes will also take gold fish, frogs, salamanders, and earthworms, but will readily change over to pinkie mice.
REFERENCES
Merker, G & C., 1996, "Common Colubrid Snakes," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996
Markel, R., 1997, "Kingsnakes & Milksnakes," Reptiles USA Annual, 1997
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