Reptiles and Other Pets

  • Green Iguanas
  • Ball Pythons
  • Bearded Dragons
  • Box Turtles
  • Colubrid Snakes
  • Day Geckos
  • Leopard Geckos
  • Monitor Lizards
  • Water Dragons
  • Water Turtles


    • Tips for Green Iguanas

    Green iguanas (Iguana iguana), decorated with a row of impressive spikes along their backs, a spiked dewlap, massive heads, and patterned, colored scales, live up to 12 years and can grow to a length of six feet.

     Their natural range runs from Mexico southward to include almost two thirds of South America, and a number of islands in both the Atlantic and Pacific.

     As pets, these creatures demand some extra care, especially in their housing and diet. Compared to some other lizards, Green Iguanas demand a little extra care, but these impressive reptiles can make themselves more than worth the trouble and provide you with pride in accomplishment, too.
     
     

    Remember:

    Housing

    Light

    Iguanas need consistent periods of light and dark to regulate their body's daily activity. Twelve hours of light and dark each day is ideal.

     Ultraviolet light helps them produce vitamin D, a critical nutrient, by activating a substance in their skin and converting it to the vitamin. Iguanas need full spectrum light, either from basking in direct sunlight unfiltered by glass, or from a good full spectrum artificial light, for several hours daily. (Remember to change your UV light bulb every 6 months, and keep it within 15 inches of your pet, to keep it most effective.)

     Iguanas are cold blooded, and don't generate their own body heat. During the day make sure that one end of the cage is heated to 95 degrees F, and provide a cool spot of about 70 degrees at the other end. At night, the temperature can drop by 10 to 12 degrees. Intense heat and light can burn an iguana's skin. Use a thermometer to ensure that the warmest part of the cage under the lamp gets no warmer than 90-95 degrees. 

    Feeding

    Food preparation

    Good Sources of Calcium

    Moderate Calcium (use sparingly)

    Poor Sources of Calcium (avoid)

    A Typical Meal

    Kale, spinach, apple, carrot, and broccoli shredded together in a food processor, with alfalfa sprouts and bean sprouts then mixed in, and then topped with crumbled boiled egg white or chow. Half a cup of this mix will be more than enough for a hatchling. Finally, this "salad" is top dressed with calcium powder.

     The basic mix can be made more colorful and tasty with moderate amounts of small berries, diced bananas, melon, tomato, corn kernels, etc.

    Buying an Iguana

    Select a pet that is bright green in color, active, and basking; avoid those that are dark, thin, or sluggish. Watching a group of iguanas being fed is a good way to tell which ones are feeling well.

    Breeding

    Young imported animals are widely available and inexpensive, so there's not much incentive to breed them domestically, but it can be fascinating. If that sounds interesting to you, we can help with advice and information.

    Iguanas are clean and elegant animals that bring some of nature's wildness into our homes, and caring for them can be a deeply rewarding experience.

    (Based, in part, on "Iguanas: Basic Captive Care Considerations", by Patrick J. Morris, D.V.M., San Diego Zoo Department of Veterinary Services, distributed by Herp-Net News Service. email: Mark.Miller@mail.tju.edu) 

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    Ball Pythons (Python regius)

    by Ashley Legore

    INTRODUCTION

    Ball pythons are a docile snake originating from west Africa to central Africa. The ball python acquired its name because of its defensive behavior of rolling up in ball. Hatchling ball pythons range in length from 10-17 inches and adults from 3-5 feet. Ball pythons are a great family snake and are easily handled by supervised children, but due to their reluctance to eat regularly they are not recommended for beginners unless the specimen is a proven eater.
     
     

    PICKING OUT A BALL PYTHON

    The best ball python to pick out is a captive bred juvenile. If you must pick an older specimen pick out the smallest in length of the group. Most ball pythons in the pet trade are wild caught specimens, they often times make poor captives unless set up properly, and you have to have a lot of patience. Upon physical exam the snake should have a strong grip, good muscle tone, and the ribs or spine should not be protruding. Eyes should be clean and clear. Nose and mouth should be free of mucus and bubbles. There should be no evidence of trauma to the scales and all should be intact. Abnormal skin from past sheds should not be retained. Check the vent and make sure no smeared diarrhea is present. Commonly, ball pythons will have ticks or mites, and unless you are willing to deal with the presence of these parasites, or you have other snakes, you should pass over these specimens.
     
     

    HOUSING

    Juvenile ball pythons can be housed in a 10 gallon aquarium. Adult snakes can be housed in a 30 gallon aquarium, larger is preferred. All aquariums or cages should be escape proof: ball pythons are excellent escape artists. The most important item for these snakes is the hide box. Ball pythons are very private and need a great deal of security to be cared for properly. Ball pythons require a great deal of privacy because they are a nocturnal snake (active at night). There should be a hide box located at either end of the cage, one on the hot side and one on the cool side. Hide boxes for ball pythons need to have the entrance at the top, an inverted flower pot with a hole cut in the bottom works best. They live in burrows and hang their heads out to catch prey, pulling the prey into the burrow to eat it. In order to keep them feeding readily and happy you must recreate this behavior in captivity. Substrate should consist of newspaper pellets, astroturf, aspen or pine bedding.
     
     

    LIGHTING AND HEATING

    Ball pythons require no light and prefer no light shining in their environment. Light shining in the hide box or on the snake causes stress and acclimation problems. Heating is achieved by using a heating pad or heating tape under the cage. The daytime temperature should be 80-85 degrees with a basking area (covered by a hide box) reaching 90 degrees. The nighttime temperature should drop to 75-80 degrees.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Refusal to feed is the problem most associated with ball pythons. If you picked a healthy specimen it will be able to fast with no ill effects. Records of ball pythons fasting for up to a year are not uncommon, so do not panic. Rules for feeding ball pythons are as follows:
     
      If the snake still does not eat try these tricks. Cover the entire cage with a sheet or blanket to ensure the most privacy. Try a gerbil, they are the native rodent of Africa and easily recognized as prey. Test a fecal on your snake at the vet to check for internal parasites, this should also be done for a snake that is eating. Brown bag method, put the prey item in a paper bag with the snake overnight, use dead prey to be sure your snake will not get chewed on. Only force feed your snake if absolutely necessary; consult your vet first.
     
     

    REFERENCES

    De Vosjoli, P., 1990, "General Care and Maintenance of Ball Pythons," Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1990

     Barker, T&D., 1996, "Pythons and Boas In Your Home," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

     "Field Notes On Wild Ball Pythons In Africa," Reptiles Magazine, 1995
     

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    BEARDED DRAGONS (Pogona vitticeps)

    by Ashley Legore

    INTRODUCTION

    Bearded dragons are becoming increasingly popular as pets because they are the tamest of all the lizards. They have outgoing personalities and numerous interesting social behaviors (such as head bobbing, tail curling, and arm waving) They make an excellent addition to any collection, and are easily handled by supervised children.
     
     

    PICKING OUT A BEARDED DRAGON

    Most all bearded dragons in the pet trade are captive bred, so they are usually healthy. Look for a clear eyed individual with a "well filled out" belly. Make sure the dragon is alert and eats readily. Upon physical exam make sure all toes are intact, and that no scales or tail tips are missing (these will not grow back). Avoid animals with rubbed noses or damage to lips or mouth.
     
     

    HOUSING

    Young hatchlings should be kept in a bare cage; a 10 gallon aquarium works well. The cage substrate ( floor material) should consist of newspaper or paper towel, and one branch or rock should be placed in the middle of the cage for basking. When the lizard grows to at least 4 inches from head to end of tail more cage furniture and substrate can be added. Small hatchlings require a lot of food to survive: a lot of cage furniture and substrate causes problems with finding the food items. For adults, cages should be large. Same-sex housing is not recommended due to territorial behavior. An adult pair should be housed in no smaller than a 55 gallon aquarium, and larger would be preferable. Bearded dragons enjoy plenty of branches and rocks for basking. Substrate for adults should consist of newspaper pellets, astroturf (with no frayed edges), or a sand and potting soil mixture. I prefer newspaper pellets they are clean and absorbent. A screen lid is required, and a shallow water dish will be appreciated for bathing.
     
     

    LIGHTING

    Lighting for bearded dragons is very important. Being a desert species, they require a lot of heat and UV light in order to ensure optimal health. Temperatures should range between 85-90 degrees with a basking spot of 100 degrees. Temperatures should go down to 75-80 degrees at night. Heat is best obtained by using an incandescent heat lamp or ceramic heat fixture focusing on 1/2 of the cage. During the winter it also helps to have a heating pad under the hot side of the cage for extra heat. The most important item for bearded dragons is UV light. UV light can only be achieved with a fluorescent light bulb. This light should be rested above the cage, within 15 inches of the lizards. The lights should be on a 12 hour light cycle: 12 hours on and 12 hours off.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Feeding bearded dragons is easy due to their vigorous appetites. They will try to eat anything put in the cage, including branches, twigs, frayed astroturf and substrate. Hatchlings should eat daily. Finely chopped greens should be offered daily and animal products should be added every other day. For sub adults and adults, greens and veggies should be offered every 2-3 days and animal products every 3-4 days. Animal products include crickets, waxworms, meal worms, and pinkie mice. Dust the food items with calcium/vitamin powder 2 times weekly. Bearded dragons should be misted daily to ensure proper hydration.
     
     

    REFERENCES

    Weiss P.P., 1996, "Bearded Dragons As Pets," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

     Hunziker R., 1996, "Bearded Dragons From Down Under," Reptile Hobbyist, Dec. 1996
     

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    Box Turtles

    by Ashley Legore

    INTRODUCTION

    The box turtle genus, Terrapene, includes 4 species and 11 races of currently recognized subspecies. They range over most of the U.S. east of the Rockies down to Mexico. Box turtles are common first time pets for reptile owners, but need special requirements. They should not be a beginner's pet.
     
     

    PICKING OUT A BOX TURTLE

    Most all box turtles in the pet trade are wild caught, so a fecal sample should be checked right after purchase. Look for a turtle that is clear eyed and active. The skin should be clear, with no abrasions or retained abnormal skin. The shell should be well formed and hard, with no evidence of trauma. All toes should be intact. The ear membrane should be flush with no bulges, and the mouth and nose should be free of bubbles or mucus.
     
     

    HOUSING

    The housing for box turtles should be large; the floor space should be 4 foot square per 1 adult specimen. The sides can be low (about 1-2 feet high). No top is needed for the enclosure, as they will rarely climb. Substrate should consist of newspaper pellet litter, a sand/potting soil mixture or pine/aspen bedding. Turtles need plenty of substrate for traction, as well as for burrowing. A shallow pan for water is required: this should be cleaned daily and the damp substrate around it removed and replaced. Outdoor pens can be used during the summer months. Make sure when building pens to sink the sides to prevent digging out, and make sure there are no predators in the area (dogs, raccoons, opossums, etc.) that will prey on the turtles.
     
     

    LIGHTING

    Heat can be achieved with an incandescent heat lamp over a corner of the cage to provide a basking spot. UV light is also required and can only be achieved with a fluorescent UV bulb, which should be suspended over the cage within 15 inches. These lights should be on a 12 hour light cycle, 12 hours on and 12 hours off.
     
     

    WINTER CARE

    Possibly the greatest long term challenge to many box turtle keepers is their turtles' biological need to spend a significant portion of the cold months inactive. As the leaf colors change outside, the turtles' appetites start shutting down. The trick, when keeping box turtles indoors, is to provide cold enough conditions to allow them to truly stay inactive. Below 50 degrees is needed to remain "asleep." Stop feeding the turtles at least 10 days prior to hibernation; all food needs to be evacuated from their guts. Soak them so they're fully hydrated. Put the turtles in a plastic shoe or sweater box with holes poked in it for air. Cover them with moist leaves or shredded newspaper. Put the box in a darkened location where the temperature doesn't rise above the low 50's. Throughout winter, keep the substrate moist and soak the turtles every couple of weeks.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Box turtles should be fed every 1-2 days. They eat a variety of things including, greens, veggies, fruit, dandelion greens and flowers, earthworms, meal worms, wax worms, slugs, crickets, and high quality dog food. A varied diet is best to ensure optimum nutrition.
     
     

    REFERENCES

    Bartlett, D., 1996 "The Carapaced Crowd," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

     Love, B., 1997 "Basics of Keeping American Box Turtles," Reptiles USA Annual, 1997
     

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    Colubrid Snakes

    by Ashley Legore

    INTRODUCTION

    The snake family Colubridae contains the largest numbers of snake species worldwide. They range in size up to 10 feet in length, and occupy a large variety of environments. Colubrid snakes generally are easy to care for and make nice pets.
     
     

    PICKING OUT A COLUBRID SNAKE

    Look for a snake who is alert , and has clear eyes and no abnormal retained skin from past sheds. Ask if it has eaten lately and if you can see it eat. Find out if the snake is captive bred or wild caught. The snake should have a nice rounded body with no ribs protruding.
     
     

    HOUSING AND LIGHTING

    Depending on the size of the snake, the perimeter of the cage should be twice as long as the entire length of the snake. The cage should have many hiding places and some branches for climbing; a large water bowl for soaking will also be appreciated. Substrate should consist of newspaper pellets, aspen bedding or pine shavings. Heat should be provided by using an incandescent heat lamp or a heating pad on half of the cage.

     Temperature should not exceed 88 degrees in the day, and at night should be between 70-75 degrees. The light should be on a 12 hour light cycle, except for in the winter, when it should be a 9-10 hour light cycle. A tight fitting cage lid is extremely important is: colubrid snakes are great escape artists.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Most all colubrids snakes eat mice or rats, depending on the size of the snake. Garter snakes will also take gold fish, frogs, salamanders, and earthworms, but will readily change over to pinkie mice.
     
     

    REFERENCES

    Merker, G & C., 1996, "Common Colubrid Snakes," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

     Markel, R., 1997, "Kingsnakes & Milksnakes," Reptiles USA Annual, 1997
     

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    Day Geckos

    by Ashley Legore

    INTRODUCTION

    There are approximately 57 species and subspecies of Day Geckos, all of which belong to the genus Phelsuma, in the family Gekkonidae. These colorful lizards make excellent additions to a collection, but remember to look, not touch. They make excellent terrarium subjects, with interesting habits.
     
     

    PICKING OUT A DAY GECKO

    Look for a bright, alert gecko that eats readily. Make sure all its toes are intact, its nose and lips should be undamaged, and it should have no patches of left-over skin from sheds. The base of its tail should be thick, its ribs should not be protruding, and its eyes should be large and clear.
     
     

    HOUSING

    Housing Day Geckos is very easy. A 20 gallon aquarium works well for a pair of small geckos, a 30 gallon aquarium works great for a larger species. They are arboreal lizards, so a terrarium that has height rather than floor space is preferred. The cage furniture should be easy to clean but provide a lot of hiding and climbing places. Strong leaf tropical plants can also be utilized. Substrate can consist of newspaper pellets or moss (moss should be changed regularly). A tight fitting lid should also be used: geckos will readily escape.
     
     

    LIGHTING AND HEATING

    Day Geckos require UV light provided by a fluorescent tube light ( UV light can only be achieved with a fluorescent bulb). Heat is best achieved with an incandescent heat bulb. The temperature range should be between 7O-90 degrees, with slight temperature drops between 8-10 degrees at night.. The heat should be consistent. Lights should be on a l2 hour light cycle: 12 hours on and 12 hours off.
     
     

    WATER AND HUMIDITY

    Day Geckos require a constant supply of fresh water. A drip system works well, and should be placed over some leaves for easy drinking. Humidity should range between 40-80%, so misting twice daily is recommended.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Day Geckos are primarily insectivores. They will accept fruit flavored baby food, fruit juices, and nectar. They will lick off of fruits such as bananas, apples, and berries. Crickets, waxworms, meal worms, and wingless fruit flies should be fed, but wild caught insects should be avoided with these species. Dust all prey items with a vitamin powder that contains a calcium/phosphorus ratio of 1:2 to 2:1. Prey items should be given 2-4 times a week.
     
     

    REFERENCES

    Loucek, J. 1996, "Keeping Day Geckos," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

     McKeown, S. 1996, "Successfully Keeping Day Geckos," Reptiles Magazine, Sept. 1996

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    Leopard Geckos (eublepharis maculaius)

    by Ashley Legore and Dan Ranes

    INTRODUCTION

    Whether you have just caught the reptile "bug" or are an advanced hobbyist, don't overlook this surian gem! This ideal pet takes little space, has simple food requirements, and comes in designer colors. A maximum size of 8 inches makes it easy for supervised children to enjoy this hardy lizard as well.

    >PICKING OUT A LEOPARD GECKO
    Look for an active and alert specimen, with a fat tail (approximately 3/4 the thickness of its neck) and bright coloration. Avoid lizards that don't open their eyes when touched, don't eat readily, or have old skin stuck to their toes.
     
     

    HOUSING

    Since leopard geckos are terrestrial lizards they can easily be kept in a glass or plastic cage that is at least 6 inches high and has a floor space of 10 inches by 10 inches. A 10 gallon aquarium works very well for an adult lizard. Line the cage with newspaper or newspaper pellet litter (never use fine grain sand: leopard geckos become impacted easily) and put on a screen top. Provide a shallow bowl of water. A hide box is also appreciated and will aid in shedding. Leopard geckos eat their shed skins as well. A hide box consists of a 6 inch plastic container with a hole cut in the lid large enough for the lizard to pass through easily. Fill the box with moist moss or sterile potting soil, and mist the inside of the box daily (the gecko will also enjoy a misting)
     
     

    LIGHTING

    The temperature range for these lizards should be as high as 82-88 degrees during the day and as low as 67 degrees at night. Heating is best achieved by an incandescent heat lamp on 1/2 of the cage. Usually a 40-60 watt bulb for a 10 gallon tank is sufficient. UV light is also essential, UV light can only be achieved by a fluorescent bulb. There should be a 12 hour light cycle of both the heat and UV light: 12 hours on 12 hours off.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Leopard geckos eat crickets, meal worms, and occasionally a large adult can handle a pinkie mouse. Dust the food with calcium powder twice weekly and make sure your lizard is heated to the optimum temperature before feeding.
     
     

    REFERENCES

    Brant, W., 1996, "Leopard and Fat Tail Geckos," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

     Tremper, R., 1997, "Leopard Geckos Past and Present," Reptiles USA Annual, 1997
     

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    Monitor Lizards

    Ashley Legore

    INTRODUCTION

    The two most common species of monitors in the pet trade are the Savannah Monitor (Varanus exanthematicus) and the Nile Monitor (Varanus niloticus). This care sheet applies to both species. Savannah Monitors are from west Africa and range in length from 2-3 feet. They are generally a placid and easily handled pet. Nile Monitors are from eastern and southern Africa and grow to between 4-5 feet (with the occasional larger specimen): they are generally an aggressive, ill tempered pet but with lots of attention can be "tame."
     
     

    PICKING OUT A MONITOR

    Look for a monitor that is active and eats readily. The specimen should be of good weight but not obese (Savannahs have a tendency to get obese). All toes should be intact and no abnormal skin should be retained from previous sheds. The mouth should be clean and free of mucus or bubbles, and the nose should be clean and free of sores or scabs. Eyes should be clear, and skin should show no signs of trauma or sores. The base of a healthy monitor's tail should be fat, at least 3/4 the thickness of the body.
     
     

    HOUSING

    With monitors the "bigger is better" rule is best when looking at cage size. A good rule to follow is, the length of the cage should be at least twice the length of the lizard and the width at least as wide as the length of the lizard. Monitors should be housed separately unless you are in the process of breeding. Nile monitors are arboreal lizards ( tree climbing) and require a tall cage. Plenty of branches are required for climbing. Savannah monitors are terrestrial and require some rocks and a low branch for cage furniture. Cages should be strong and sturdy, because monitors will escape readily. Cages are best made out of plywood and plexiglass with a wire mesh roof. Wire mesh is not recommended for the sides, since some species will rub their noses raw on the wire. A hide box is appreciated for privacy. Substrates that work best are newspaper, newspaper pellet litter, astroturf, linoleum, and aspen or pine bedding.
     
     

    LIGHTING

    Daytime temperatures should range from 82-90 degrees with a basking spot of 95-100 degrees. This is best achieved with an incandescent heat lamp or ceramic heat bulb shining on 1/2 of the cage. UV light is also required and is very important. (Remember: UV light can only be achieved with a fluorescent UV bulb.) The lights should be on a 12 hour light cycle, 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Nighttime temperatures should drop down to 70-75 degrees.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Monitors are carnivorous lizards and will eat just about any meat item offered. Food items include mice, rats, rabbits (for large species), crickets, meal worms, all other insects, birds, fish, eggs, and other reptiles and amphibians. A varied diet is the best way to ensure the best nutrition. Clean, fresh water should be available at all times, in a container large enough for the lizard to bathe in. Daily misting of the monitor is also required to raise humidity and aid in skin management.
     
     

    REFERENCES

    American Federation Of Herptoculturists (AFH), 1996, Guidelines To Responsible Monitor Ownership (Can be obtained by writing to AFH, P.O. Box 300067, Escondido, CA, 92030-0067)

     Strimple,P., 1996, "Monitor Species," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996
     

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    WATER DRAGONS

    Ashley Legore and Dan Ranes

    INTRODUCTION

    With impressive features and great climbing abilities, the water dragons make exciting pets. They require a large cage, and some specimens are hard to keep captive. With the right set up and following their easy eating requirements, though, they make a nice addition to a collection.
     
     

    PICKING OUT A WATER DRAGON

    When purchasing a water dragon find out if the specimen was wild caught or captive bred (generally, captive bred water dragons make the best pets). If wild caught, ask how long it has been in captivity. Pick a dragon that is active and alert, eats readily, has no external parasites, and has no old shedding skin still attached. Look at the housing: the cage should be well maintained and sanitary. This helps keep the numbers of bacteria and parasites down. The lizard should be free of wounds, all toes and toenails should be intact, nostrils should be dry and free of crust, the mouth should have no mucus or bubbles around the lips, color should be good for the specific species, and weight should be good and evenly distributed with ribs only slightly visible. Water dragons' noses and nostrils should be intact: they have a bad habit of rubbing their noses off on their cage.
     
     

    HOUSING

    Being a large lizard, with males up to 36 inches (including the tail) and females only slightly smaller, water dragons need a spacious environment. They are arboreal lizards (they climb trees, and spend the majority of their time in trees). They are also excellent swimmers, often sinking to the bottom of their water bowl and staying under water without breathing for up to an hour. Their cage should be very large, at least a 75 gallon aquarium per 1 adult pair. Cages should not be made with wire mesh due to the nose rubbing problem these lizards experience. A large bowl of water or a watering system, deep and big enough for swimming, is required. Water should be clean and fresh. High humidity is essential for these lizards but good ventilation is also required. Plenty of branches for climbing should also be available, as well as lots of foliage. These lizards like to have foliage or a hide box in the cage to reduce stress. This also helps with the nose rubbing problem.
     
     

    LIGHTING

    Daytime temperature should be 85-87 degrees with a nighttime low dropping as low as 75 degrees. This heat gradient is easily achieved by using an incandescent heat lamp on 1/2 of the cage. UV light is essential for these lizards (the only way to get proper UV light is with a fluorescent UV light bulb). The heat lamp and the UV light should be on a 12 hour light cycle: 12 hours on and 12 hours off.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Water dragons are mainly carnivores, but will accept some vegetable or fruit matter occasionally. Finely chopped fruits and veggies should be offered 1-2 times weekly. Meat items should be offered daily to hatchlings and young adults and 3-4 times weekly to adults. Prey items include crickets, meal worms, earthworms, goldfish, quail chicks, and mice. The food items should be dusted with a carnivore specific vitamin powder once weekly. Make sure your lizard is heated to its optimum temperature prior to feeding.
     
     

    References

    : Mader, D., 1997, "Water Dragons," Reptiles USA Annual, 1997

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    Water Turtles

    by Ashley Legore

    INTRODUCTION

    The keeping of turtles has long been a popular hobby. Until a few years ago, many species of turtles were readily available in pet stores. Today, however, so many state, federal, and international regulations are involved with collecting, importation and sale of water turtles that many shops don't carry them at all. The needs of water turtles can be complex and misunderstood, and meeting these needs is especially important if the specimen is going to be kept healthy and in captivity for a long period of time.
     
     

    PICKING OUT A WATER TURTLE

    First of all, look at the environment that the turtle is kept in. It should be clean and properly lighted (noted later in this care sheet). No feces or uneaten food should be floating in the water. The turtle's eyes should be clear and open wide, the ear membrane should lie flat and have no bulges. There should be no cracks or abrasions on the shell. All toes should be intact and skin should look clean and free of fungus or film. The turtle should eat readily, and the mouth should be intact and free of mucus or lumps.
     
     

    HOUSING

    Adequate housing will, of course be determined by the size and quantity of turtles you are keeping. With water turtles it is better to err on the side of excess than to have too little space. For instance, an adult Red Eared Slider should be kept in nothing smaller than a 30-40 gallon tank. Larger ponds, cattle troughs or child wading pools work well also. Not only will the turtle need water, but it will need a haulout area for basking: a flat rock or floating platform or log works well. Clean water is of great importance so, however you set up your turtle's enclosure, make sure it will be easily cleaned and drained of water. A submersible water filter is also helpful.
     
     

    LIGHTING AND HEAT

    Water turtles require two types of light. First is a basking light consisting of an incandescent heat light hanging over a basking spot. The second is UV light, provided by a fluorescent UV light bulb suspended over the cage (within 15 inches). The lights should be on a 9-12 hour light cycle, on and off. During the winter months a submersible water heater should be used to keep the water at a comfortable temperature. Basking temperatures should be between 84-94 degrees and water temperature should be between 72-80 degrees.
     
     

    FEEDING

    Food items consist of goldfish, crickets, meal worms, earthworms, beef heart, commercial turtle food, and greens. All uneaten food should be removed from the cage within an hour to prevent contaminating the water. Water turtles should be fed every 1 or 2 days. Food sources should be dusted with vitamin/calcium powder once or twice weekly.
     
     

    REFERENCES

    Bartlett,D., 1996, "The Carapaced Crowd," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

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