Geckos

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Day Geckos & Leopard Geckos

Day Geckos

There are approximately 57 species and subspecies of Day Geckos, all of which belong to the genus Phelsuma, in the family Gekkonidae. These colorful lizards make excellent additions to a collection, but remember to look, not touch. They make excellent terrarium subjects, with interesting habits.

PICKING OUT A DAY GECKO

Look for a bright, alert gecko that eats readily. Make sure all its toes are intact, its nose and lips should be undamaged, and it should have no patches of left-over skin from sheds. The base of its tail should be thick, its ribs should not be protruding, and its eyes should be large and clear.

HOUSING

Housing Day Geckos is very easy. A 20 gallon aquarium works well for a pair of small geckos, a 30 gallon aquarium works great for a larger species. They are arboreal lizards, so a terrarium that has height rather than floor space is preferred. The cage furniture should be easy to clean but provide a lot of hiding and climbing places. Strong leaf tropical plants can also be utilized. Substrate can consist of newspaper pellets or moss (moss should be changed regularly). A tight fitting lid should also be used: geckos will readily escape.

LIGHTING AND HEATING

Day Geckos require UV light provided by a fluorescent tube light ( UV light can only be achieved with a fluorescent bulb). Heat is best achieved with an incandescent heat bulb. The temperature range should be between 7O-90 degrees, with slight temperature drops between 8-10 degrees at night.. The heat should be consistent. Lights should be on a l2 hour light cycle: 12 hours on and 12 hours off.

WATER AND HUMIDITY

Day Geckos require a constant supply of fresh water. A drip system works well, and should be placed over some leaves for easy drinking. Humidity should range between 40-80%, so misting twice daily is recommended.

FEEDING

Day Geckos are primarily insectivores. They will accept fruit flavored baby food, fruit juices, and nectar. They will lick off of fruits such as bananas, apples, and berries. Crickets, waxworms, meal worms, and wingless fruit flies should be fed, but wild caught insects should be avoided with these species. Dust all prey items with a vitamin powder that contains a calcium/phosphorus ratio of 1:2 to 2:1. Prey items should be given 2-4 times a week.

REFERENCES

Loucek, J. 1996, "Keeping Day Geckos," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

McKeown, S. 1996, "Successfully Keeping Day Geckos," Reptiles Magazine, Sept. 1996

Leopard Geckos (eublepharis maculaius)

Whether you have just caught the reptile "bug" or are an advanced hobbyist, don't overlook this surian gem! This ideal pet takes little space, has simple food requirements, and comes in designer colors. A maximum size of 8 inches makes it easy for supervised children to enjoy this hardy lizard as well.

PICKING OUT A LEOPARD GECKO

Look for an active and alert specimen, with a fat tail (approximately 3/4 the thickness of its neck) and bright coloration. Avoid lizards that don't open their eyes when touched, don't eat readily, or have old skin stuck to their toes.

HOUSING

Since leopard geckos are terrestrial lizards they can easily be kept in a glass or plastic cage that is at least 6 inches high and has a floor space of 10 inches by 10 inches. A 10 gallon aquarium works very well for an adult lizard. Line the cage with newspaper or newspaper pellet litter (never use fine grain sand: leopard geckos become impacted easily) and put on a screen top. Provide a shallow bowl of water. A hide box is also appreciated and will aid in shedding. Leopard geckos eat their shed skins as well. A hide box consists of a 6 inch plastic container with a hole cut in the lid large enough for the lizard to pass through easily. Fill the box with moist moss or sterile potting soil, and mist the inside of the box daily (the gecko will also enjoy a misting)

LIGHTING

The temperature range for these lizards should be as high as 82-88 degrees during the day and as low as 67 degrees at night. Heating is best achieved by an incandescent heat lamp on 1/2 of the cage. Usually a 40-60 watt bulb for a 10 gallon tank is sufficient. UV light is also essential, UV light can only be achieved by a fluorescent bulb. There should be a 12 hour light cycle of both the heat and UV light: 12 hours on 12 hours off.

FEEDING

Leopard geckos eat crickets, meal worms, and occasionally a large adult can handle a pinkie mouse. Dust the food with calcium powder twice weekly and make sure your lizard is heated to the optimum temperature before feeding.

REFERENCES

Brant, W., 1996, "Leopard and Fat Tail Geckos," Reptiles USA Annual, 1996

Tremper, R., 1997, "Leopard Geckos Past and Present," Reptiles USA Annual, 1997